Friday, July 22, 2011

A sea of beauty

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I’m a bit distraught today and I know it’s just silly. My blog used to get at least 20-30 people looking at it every day. Since I’ve gone away for the past month, it’s dropped to about 12 a day. I never even write this thing for other people to read, it’s mostly just for me and my family who insist on intimate boring details of my day to day life. But now that the readers aren’t there, it’s a bit more of a bore and it makes me feel like I’m not as interesting any more. This is probably why I wouldn’t make it as a famous person, Prime Minister or serious blogger.

Not to worry. It’s certainly not going to stop me from blogging – I really quite enjoy deconstructing my life and reflecting on things.

So, upon that note: see above photos of my day. It probably looks exotically cool?! Somewhere along the way the exotic has been removed from my daily life. Looking at the photos now, it looks like I had an awesome day! And I did, I guess. But it was no different to yesterday or the day before. It’s beautiful, and beautifully different up this end of the world and I need to stop taking it for granted! I try not to, and I don’t really. I can sit for hours and watch people conducting their daily business, children in tow…. I just hope you don’t think I do. It’s bloody awesome that I’m here but I don’t feel like the intrepid traveller or someone who’s worked super hard to get here. So, I’ll stick to the bloody awesome and appreciate the moment.

And appreciate I shall. Over another cup of strange-but-delicious red berry hot tea and some processed Omul (endemic fish of Baikal) fish cakes.

Oh yeah, and another cool thing about such a large sea of fresh water is that it still smells like the beach. The hot sun on the sand and the water in the air still smells beachy, just not AS beachy as the ocean. For lunch today we had a ‘salad’ made of some strange looking marine algae chopped up with corn.

Thursday, July 21, 2011

Olkhon Island

Olkhon Island is located about half way up Lake Baikal. It’s accessible only by ferry during the summer and by car-over-frozen-lake in winter. The ferry ride’s only less than 1km long and it’s pretty simple. So far, worth the effort.

So, three days have passed – one final day in Lystvianka reading and lolling around in the overcast weather. One travel day between Lystvianka and Irkutsk via ferry. It was a very comfortable, easy ride that took us in to town where we caught a bus the rest of the journey. And one final day travelling between Irkutsk and Olkhon Island, via bus. Once we managed to find the bus stop we were on our merry way. Below: the ferry and the straight between the two bits of land; me out the front of the ferry waiting patiently in the rain

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Yesterday I indulged in an expensive (500 ruble) dinner because I was in need of some substantial food in my belly. And a glass of wine. I also indulged my photo/camera-fetish, purchasing two old 35mm cameras. One’s a Lomo automatic and one’s a Fed3. I still feel silly about buying them. Like I need encouragement to take more bloody photos. And spend more money on more bloody film, developing, bits and pieces……

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Nevermind, I have them now! Ebony and I can play, and I’ll given them to Charlie to add to his collection once I get bored of them (probably very soon).

Skype’s great but it’s bloody annoying. It never seems to work properly and cuts in an out so much you’d be better off communicating on a satellite UHF radio with a 5 second delay. I remember in year 10 I had to do a telephone interview with the local newspaper over a satellite telephone. It took the interviewer a long time to grasp the concept of phone delays. It was 2002 – phone delays weren’t normal. Luckily we got our proper phone up and running not long after.

Anyway, re: Skype – I get so excited about hearing and seeing my family and friends only to be bitterly disappointed when I have to hang up because there’s no meaning to our broken conversation. Perhaps I need to fix something……

It’s another rainy day and I have a live cat at my feet in bed. It’s taken a liking to me which is unusual for a cat – they can usually smell my hatred. I haven’t got hayfever yet so I’m letting it stay only because I get cold feet and it acts as a good hot water bottle. It’s pretty placid.

We’re staying at ‘Nikita’s Lodge’ which is an ecotourism lodge that I suppose rivals the Three Camels Lodge in the South Gobi. It’s got nothing on the Three Camels Lodge though. Dinner was shithouse – an unidentifiable piece of chicken the size of my thumb on a cup of rice. No four course meals here!!!! Apart from the food though, it’s pretty cool. The view to the lake is unsurpassed and the general feel of the joint is good. The staff are friendly and there’s a hot shower. Rooms are basic – two single beds – but there’s a pet rabbit that looks like my rabbit my mum gave to my step-cousins a couple of years ago. There are things to do. It’s a novelty! We can organise a boat tour, a 4-wheeler tour, a hiking trip…… It’s all organised here which would have taken a bit of initiative to get up and running but I can guarantee it’ll make my visit a lot more pleasant!

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Gold tooth

Nevell would totally be in his element. Gold teeth are trendy here. So trendy - the more you have, the better. Like, why not have your entire row of front teeth coated in gold. Oh yeah. Gold teeth.

It’s pretty cool though. It’s something I could never imagine doing. For those that don’t know, I’ve had a dodgy front tooth since I was in kindergarten due to a trampoline incident and I recently got a metal rod jammed into my jaw and a fake porcelain tooth glued on to the metal rod to replace it. I’m quite vain – I don’t wear make up and I don’t go to too much effort with my hair but I like to look nice, so it’s been a bit of adjustment having a tooth that’s not exactly the same as the one they pulled out (it was pretty sick). They did a good job – no one notices (except me) and the dentist said when he finished ‘oh, shit, that’s the best looking one I’ve done’. I’m grateful it’s not the worst because I still hate it. Nevermind.

I am now eternally grateful that I didn’t have to have gold plastered on the tooth to keep it longer, because that would have been MUCH more of an adjustment.

I used to work on a drill rig logging coal core. I might have to do it again when I get back to Australia but that’s another story. Work was pretty hard so whenever I got some downtime, it was pretty good. When it rains, it’s too dangerous to be walking around a drill rig because the pad (the site that the rig is on) is cleared land that gets boggy and slippery – it’s too much of a HSE hazard. So when it was pissing down in the morning while I was working that job, I knew I wouldn’t have to get up and go to work. It lit some firecrackers inside me and I always had a little party in my mind, knowing I could stay at home and rest.

This morning I woke up to a party – there was some massive thunder and lightning followed by some heavy rainfall. It’s the best thing to wake up to I reckon. I stayed in bed for a while and eventually got up to a cooked breakfast of a cinnamon scroll and scrambled eggs with bacon. Russia just gets better every day. I washed up and hopped back in to bed to continue reading my book. My kindle’s got a workout lately. I love it so much! I’m reading ‘The Plantation’. It’s a nice change from the cheap, short crappy books I’ve been reading of late. It’s not going to win a major literary award for it’s tricky words and twisty plot, but it’s a good read and I’m enjoying it!

I don’t want to waste it so I’ve been breaking up my reading time with walks and so-on. Lystvianka is swanky. So swanky they have a proper timber path up the side of the hill that meanders around and has signs with the trees that you’re looking at, like an arboretum. The tree names are written in Russian and also in Latin which means I can kind of make some association with what it’s related to. If only I had taken more forestry courses (the lecturers would only give me credits for my work; geology and environmental lecturers would give me high distinctions so I thought ‘bugger you guys and bugger forestry, I’m sticking to the good marks’. In hindsight it was probably me just being crap at forestry. hah.).

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I wandered along the road and stopped at the beach – sat and just sucked in the fresh air and beautiful (albeit overcast and foggy) day. There is a fish market about 1km from our homestay and I walked past again on my way home. One guy asked me if I wanted a shishlik (kebab) and I didn’t want one but I said yes anyway. Best decision ever! Man, that pig tasted GOOD! I haven’t had much protein lately (no fridges, lots of processed meat that I don’t like, more expensive etc) so eating a massive kebab stick of pork was a big ask but it was worth it. YUM. It was also really cool. I ordered my kebab, went and paid, got my kebab, got my change and the shop guy had given me a choco-pie. How nice! I sat and ate and they wanted to know if I was American. I always internally sigh a little bit of relief – American’s are standard in this neck of the woods and although I know they’re treated with respect, Australia is that bit more exotic and kangaroos always get a good laugh. So no, I told them I was not American and they sat and chatted. There were three guys. One with a whole row of gold front teeth, one cooking the kebabs and the shopkeeper who had definitely at one stage had his upper lip cut open and then sewn back together.

Below: me at the beach of Lake Baikal, a limo stopped to pick up some smoked fish, the kebab cooker with the YUM stuff

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Between the four of us (and then five, when Sarah turned up), we had a great time! Gold tooth guy was very keen to learn english numbers 1-10 and then 100-1000. He also wanted to know ‘sit down’ and ‘stand’, and practiced by pulling the kebab guy out of the shop and making him obey his commands of ‘sit down’ and ‘stand’. I nearly wet myself when he was doing that – is was SO funny to watch! Gold tooth guy was pretty keen on me which always makes things easier and more fun. He helped me find some ice creams and now we’ve got a date for 7pm tonight  - we’ll be going back for dinner, mainly because it’s the cheapest food around.

They took their turns chatting to us (well, kind of) and laughing and sharing their smoked fish with us. It was one of those ‘ahhhh, this is what it’s all about!’ moments. Just relaxing and great.


An afternoon of goodies. The Limnology Museum is not very exciting. It’s a lovely grand building with a basic aquarium downstairs – with nerpa seals and endemic fish. The seals have nothing in the water except themselves, the poor things must be so bored. The are very fat little things with two flipper like tails with five finger bones in each that expand and contract to help them swim. There’s a little bit of a museum upstairs with rocks and some stuffed animals and a lot of dead fish in jars.

Rather disappointed in the museum (250rubles for about 30mins entertainment), we wandered down the street. It’s a long street. I think by the time we got to the end it would have been about 7km. There were markets along the way where I got about 1kg of tiny wincy little delicious blueberries (note to self: don’t eat too many at a time, they make you sick!). We bought a donut thing and ate it on the beach with the rest of the tourists. Below: me and a mermaid; Sarah on the ‘beach’.

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We’d arranged our dinner date for 7pm. We were late and he got up us for it – I laughed a lot. We’d tried to understand each other all afternoon and we’d set 7pm, we were late and he was proving that he understood us by giving us shit that we were late! It was great. I said no to another pork skewer as I wasn’t very hungry and had some great fried rice stuff. The three blokes sat with us and talked. We talked about his brother, my family, the cost of Mercedes Benz vehicles in Russia compared to Australia, my wage and the cost of living in Australia, the cost of flights to Australia, whether we had boyfriends or not, what car we drive  in Australia (they tried to make us drive their ute to prove it; I was not about to ruin some man’s vehicle!), how much an Audi costs and a few other things. They wanted to know why I don’t drive an Audi in Australia and I said the money – they’re too expensive. They told me I should find a boyfriend to pay for the car. I said I’d need three boyfriends to pay for an Audi in Australia and they erupted in laughter. They have the most beautiful, genuine and infectious smile I’ve seen for a long time. THEN the joke continued when gold tooth guy told me I should get three boyfriends, make them buy me an Audi and then give them the flick!

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Left: the shisklik chef; Gold Tooth; Shopkeeper

 

The shop keeper guy said he’d move to Australia to marry me.

We taught them a few more English words. Gold Tooth wanted to take us to see Tajikistan (where he’s from). I’d LOVE to see Tajikistan. Unfortunately, it’s not the ideal place to holiday at the moment and… just, no.

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Lystvianka

Is amazing!

It’s where the rich people hang, judging by the Merc’s, BMW’s, Landrovers’, Porche’s and the big pretty houses.

Irkutsk is cool but it’s big which means it has shit bits to go with it. We found our way back to the train station for a fraction of the cost of the same ride the previous day. This guy even gave us change when we tried to give him too much money.

It was pretty tricky trying to find the train. It’s not like Central Station in Sydney where there are people there to help you all the time. We were cutting fine time but eventually figured it out, hopped on board and away we went. Below: at the train station waiting for our train.

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Twelve hours later we arrived at Lystvianka. That’s right. Twelve hours. The journey is most definitely not the equivalent in kilometres. It’s quite a short distance, really. If you were in to engineering, you would probably have been impressed at the grandiose effort to create tunnels in the metamorphic rock. If you were a train buff, you’d be keen to stop and check out the old steam trains along the way. If you were in to people watching, it would also be perfect for you. The variety of people is great. Ranging from see through mesh singlets with nipple covers on a fat man to matching pant suits and hat to skin tight, boob-popping white see through dresses. And watching Russians as tourists in their own country is really interesting. We were one of probably only 20 international tourists on the train of about 150 people. Below: an interesting character stalking a train stop. He obviously has quite a few stories to tell.

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It was a very long and very slow train journey. We stopped a lot to look at things and take photos which is a nice idea but it got old really quickly. We were in first class which was comfortable but no reclining seats. Everything was announced in Russian (fair enough) so we had no idea what to expect. It was no different to the train we caught form Ulan Ude to Irkutsk – the scenery is great, the engineering is world class (or was, a long time ago), the trains are comfortable, the lake is big….. You definitely don’t need to spend $80AUD on a ticket to prove it. Nevermind, we know now – BUT it means we’re in Lystvianka which is TOTES COOL!

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Above: our train with the destination written in Cyrillic, the train journey, a stop along the way

It’s a town sprawled along the lakeside with castles and old buildings as well as newer ones. It over looks the lake (every building does) and has one road that goes right along side the lake. From the train, we caught a ferry over the straight to Lystvianka and walked up to our homestay (the name of our accommodation). We would never have found it ourselves. The guy we’re staying with conveniently bowled us up on the highway (we were walking in the right general direction) and made sure he was talking to the right people. He took us up past the Limnological Museum (I don’t know what it means either) and up into an apartment block and BAM – welcome to the coolest place you’ll ever stay! It’s an apartment that belongs to this guy and he feeds you breakfast and provides accommodation and is super friendly. It’s a normal thing to do in Russia – but you need to be a bit more organised as they’re cheaper so book out quicker. The two bedroom apartment overlooks the lake. It has a raging hot shower, kitchen and a loungeroom. It’s so great. We have one room and another couple are in the other room. They’re Polish and about 75 and don’t speak english but they’re friendly enough.

Below: my favourite photo of the day: dad and kids playing in the lake (that’s pretty cold)

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More exciting new: he is a biologist (so can teach me about the endemic things of Lake Baikal) and….. his dad is a geologist in UB. Hells yes. Geologists everywhere, from Australia to UB to Russia.

We’re here for three nights. I’m happy. I am also looking forward to going home and being home. And doing nothing at home, just for a little while.